2005.04.23

Train What a perfect way to start my journey. I lost my wallet. On the first train I had to get on I managed to loose my wallet. I showed the conductor my confirmation code and it wasn’t working and my wallet was sitting in my lap. God what a moron I am. So instead of taking the state dept. exam I am sitting in the Helsinki train station waiting until they hear back from Turku if my wallet is found. I’m not sure what to do if it is not. I have about €340 cash, but will that last for a month?

2005.04.24
10:22
Today is brighter. I am on my way to Göteborg. Ásta’s other city. Yesterday continued to be terrible. I got on an earlier train to Turku to see if my wallet was there. Of course it wasn’t and on the way the conductor wouldn’t accept my booking of a later train, he also made me pay full price, because I no longer have a Finnish student card. A Finish student VISA in my passport wasn’t good enough. Then I couldn’t get a refund for my later travel because I didn’t have the credit card I bought it with, it was in my wallet. Fortunately I was able to pay for my ferry ticket at inter-rail rate even though the period of my pass started today. In Turku I emailed Leif and Ben to see if they could cancel my card and Ásta to see want the pin code for my Icelandic bank card is.

Train The Swedish train seems more run down than the Finnish ones. Although I am avoiding the premier trains so I don’t have to pay a supplement. I already miss the announcements of the Finnish trains. The oft repeated phrases in Finnish, then “Välkomna ombord" and “Welcome on board" The messages on this train are in Swedish only and spoken by the driver or the conductor.

Sleeping on the ferry was refreshing, even if very interrupted. It seems those ferries are mostly an escape for middle aged, middle class Finns. The seats for those without cabins are terribly placed. They are right next to slot machines and all night there were drunk Finns throwing their money away, loudly, with occasional winnings loudly spat back out. As with my first ride from Turku by ferry I don’t think many completed their journey. When I got off in Mariehamn I was surprised at the couple of hundred or so getting off with me, but then all but a few got back immediately for another ferry back to Turku. Once again this morning it seemed much less were getting off the ferry compared to the number that got on. I must confess it leads to feelings of elitism, Stan would be pleased.

I wonder how the rails are in Russia, and when I will finally see that country. Earlier in the year I had plans to visit my friend Igor in Sverdlovsk. Perhaps Sverdlovsk will come next year. I remember seeing the road stretching away from Ivalo to Murmansk in October.

Rail stations are interesting to look at. There are so many of them. Mostly different, but with a character that says, “Hello, I am a rail station.? What are they used for? They can’t help but be mostly empty I think. I wonder if there was ever a time when they weren’t. To me they often inspire a sort of past glory. As rails were once the forefront but no longer. All the Nordic countries use a lot of brickwork in their construction. The rail bed here is a different color than near Joensuu. There it is a common rock grey color. Here the stones look rusty. I wonder if this is from iron content.

23:05
One of the nice things about travel is the random conversations with strangers. It seems to be quite easy here in Sweden. For the last hour of my train to Göteborg I talked to a Sandra, a member of the Christian Democrats, about royalty, politics etc. Coming back I talked to a Sara after hoards of tennis kids invaded our train and we lost our seats. She pointed out an alternate route back that was fortunately much less crowded. Then a short time ago I talked with a Rosie about little dogs and Rome. Its strange to meet someone for a few short minutes and part ways for life. Just a short time ago this would have been a very rare occurrence. Transportation is so easy in our age. I wonder if it will remain.

Ferry Bus What struck me most about Göteborg was the public transit. The streets are full of railroad tracks for trams…hmm a young man was fighting with the conductor, this probably won’t end well…and I went down to the shore and what should appear but a ferry that was part of it as well. The best part of it was the trimmings. It had one of those digital displays showing the location that are often in busses and there was even a proper bus shelter a few meters back from the shore…now three conductors are here…I don’t think he’ll be travelling with this train.

2005.04.26
10:36
The poor boy didn’t travel on the train. The train itself was interesting. I couldn’t find the seats, it was a long train and I walked from end to end before asking. As it turned out half of the first car was with seats. The entire rest of the train was nothing but beds. Fortunately there was room. It is great to ride endlessly with the pass and not have to pay any more. That trip to København saved me a night in an over-priced Swedish hostel. There were a variety of different trains I rode in Sweden, some were quite old, with wooden paneling and quite boxy in structure, while others were streamlined affairs made of plastic and metal.

Christiania In København I finally took a look around. It is the 4th time I’ve been to that city but only the first time I had the time and opportunity to see any of it. I used one of the free bikes that the city provides. This is a wonderful idea but the bikes are absolute crap. They are tiny and very uncomfortable. The bicycle continues to define that city for me. Instead of handfuls using them to get around there are hoards. The city provides specific bike infrastructure, and it is very much utilized. The statues and castles of København are much like elsewhere in Europe. The little mermaid statue very well fit with what I’ve heard. It is very unimpressive and also quite ugly. Christiania is quite nice though. My first impression was definitely negative. It seemed ugly and littered. This was the end most people enter. Near Pusher Street where marijuana is sold. I was there in the off season I suppose because it was rather dead, perhaps it was also due to the time of day. Travelling further into Christiania was where I came to like it. There were obviously not the same building rules as outside the quarter. Things were jumbled but in a not unpleasant way. I’ve heard the Danish govt. wants to tare the place down and sell the land. When I walked past the front area I couldn’t help but think “why not?" but I changed my mind on walking further. It seems wise that this little spot is able to exist in the middle of a West European capital. It would be a great loss to destroy all this, especially for the families that live there. Perhaps the govt. will only force conformity. Even then much would be lost. There was a trio of Danish cops walking around and they seemed out of place. They were joking together but nervously, and seemed like they probably felt out of place too. Of course another high point for me in this place is that it mints its own coins. So now I have a couple. They are overpriced and probably not much used in commerce but it’s a nice idea. I wanted to use their post office as well but it didn’t open until 14:00. So I will have to try again next time.

2005.04.27
14:11
The ride to Karlskrona was uneventful. The Swedish countryside reminds me more than anything of the U.S./Canadian mid-west. Farming and farms, even a Chevy truck here and there. I had a surprise and one more reason to dislike Stena Lines in Karlskrona. I had decided to take that ferry to Sweden because I reasoned since it was less than half the distance it must be cheaper, checking their internet site seemed to confirm this. However since they only had the info I needed in Swedish and Polish I must have missed something. With a pile of additional fees the trip from Karlskrona to Gdynia was significantly more than from Nynashamn to Gdansk. In addition I paid in Euros at a very bad rate, in the end it was half the price that the ferry from Norway to Iceland will be.

Danzig Poland didn’t really match with my idea of it. Things were better than I’d expected. It did feel more Eastern, in line with my feelings of Hungary. Things are dirtier, and cheaper, but it is certainly Europe. Certainly part of the developed world. Not everything was dirtier though. So far the windows on Polish trains are the cleanest I’ve seen on this trip. Elsewhere they are speckled with dirty water spots.

21:19
Another thing that Poland has in abundance is little bakeries. This also brought back memories of Budapest. I was walking around in Gdansk for four hours and I never came across a grocery store. But there were an endless number of bakeries. Gdansk itself was a pleasure. When I began walking around I thought that I must have missed the tourist season because here was an old city like Tallinn, but without the tourists. I also had these thoughts in Christiania. I think the real solution is that in not actually staying anywhere I am getting an earlier start than most. I came to this conclusion when as the hour advanced the tourist area of Gdansk filled up with German tourists. It does make sense for Germans to be there, until the end of WWII Gdansk was Danzig and almost entirely populated by Germans. The USSR expelled or killed them all though. The other aspect of Gdansk that struck me was the many groups of young Polish school children all over the place, seemingly on excursions.

2005.05.07
07:19

North Sea The ferry from Rosslare to Rosscoff feels almost like a ghost ship. No one is awake, or almost. Prone bodies lie here and there in corners and passageways. The boat rocks gently from side to side in the waves as the whole structure hums with the engines. Perhaps most of the passengers are French high school students. While most of those working on the ship seem by their accents to be Russian. Last night in the seating area I was kept up for a long time by bad mouthed Poles. I don’t know what they were talking about most of the time although for awhile it was passports, every other word just about was “kurva?

14:30
Now I am on a TGV train from Morlaix to Paris. It is a very nice train, or at least very smooth. I have heard that these are the most advanced trains in Europe. I am crossing my fingers that they won’t ask for a supplement since I have a couple euros left and nothing in my Icelandic account unless Enskuskolinn has gotten around to paying me yet. Fortunately my replacement credit card was waiting for me in Cork when I got there. If it hadn’t been then I would be entirely screwed at this point, regardless it is very uncomfortable to have no cash at all.

2005.05.09
12:26

Spanish Toilet I hope that France is alone in not taking credit cards for small transactions. I am at La Tour de Carol, on the border between France and Spain. This morning I arrived from Paris Austerlitz in L’Hospitalet Pres l’Andorre and took a bus up to Pas de la Casa. Unfortunately I bought a ticket as far as Andorra la Vella, after arriving at the border I lost any desire, or at least much desire of going further. Andorra seems to be nothing but a big tax free shopping zone. An alien complex sat right on the border, reminding me of nothing so much as the Nevada border. The next bus down to France was not to leave for some hours so I decided to hitchhike away after getting photos of a payphone, license plates and post boxes, and getting a stamp in my passport from the police (of course!!!). I don’t think it’s a real stamp, but it is from the authorities so I suppose it will have to do. Hitchhiking in Andorra isn’t the worst. There was a lot of retirees out to save €2 and they of course aren’t the type to stop. Some of them walking by didn’t even return a friendly “bon jour" I guessed at their French from license plates). Middle class trash destined for an early grave by stress induced heart attacks. Eventually I was picked up by a long haired 20 something named Bruno or something similar, who spoke little English but brought me back to L’Hospitalet. It is small and chilly, the middle of nowhere, the sort of place that has always been and always will be the middle of nowhere. The Pyrenees so long a barrier, protecting, repelling. I’ve seen snow again, not since Finland was there snow. They are small mountains here, old and calling back towards winter. La tour de Carol is another dusty little place, the toilet here is a strange hole in the ground.

2005.05.14
10:40
In this endless travel I feel slothful. Sitting so many hours of so many days. I yearn for something active, to be busy again. At least I should write some clumsy sentences. Document yet more of this lifestyle. I should get back to talking about Poland for I didn’t finish with my thoughts and feelings of that place. It did not meet my expectations I repeat. Places seldom do though, especially reportedly underdeveloped places. They usually aren’t so different from developed places. Having now seen some of the south of Europe as well as the east it seems in many ways the east and west have more in common with each other than with the south. This will likely be increasingly true as the east catches up with the level of development in the west.

Poland, I spent a day going from Gdansk to Katovice. It was in one of the six person compartments that I’ve grown used to over the last few weeks yet seems to be absent in the Nordic countries. They aren’t as common as the normal seating but a pleasure when they exist. That is if they are not full! If a conversation ensues all the better, and an empty one of these compartments is a luxury bed. I had two nice conversations that day. The first was with Anna from Gdynia or Gdansk who studies for a master in the conservation and restoration of artwork in Torun. The second was a former English teacher who got tired of it and so he quit and was trying to get into IT. I also talked a bit with an old man who didn’t speak English. We communicated sort of in German. The Polish train was my first experience with a train being late. Although it wouldn’t be the last. I had to take a train out of Katowice that didn’t have any seats. Only beds. So there went €13.40 or so as a supplement. The biggest tragedy of this was I left my lovely black wool beanie on the train.

14:38

Srpska The worst experience with a late train seems underway now. It has been sitting in this small town past Banya Luka for over an hour, no one seems much surprised so I imagine the current situation is a common one. So I guess I won’t be going to Sarajevo after all. This is too bad as I was looking forward to it. Bosnia really is poor. In many places most of the houses seemed deserted. The roads sometimes become muddy trails, and many people are doing manual farming. I mean a lot more manual than I imagine it to be in richer parts of the continent. It still feels like Europe but it is the poorest Europe I’ve seen.

Now I am hugry and thirsty. I doubt this town has an ATM though. I was planning to get supplies in Sarajevo. I suppose the wisdom to be learned here is that in the Balkans one should expect delays and plan accordingly.

17:10
OK it is two hours behind. I might just make it to Sarajevo to leave again. But I think I will leave off a town or so before. I found a girl, Vanessa so something, who spoke English. It was the engine that wasn’t working properly. So they sent one from a bit down the line to take the train. She also helped me buy some water and euros were ok. Apparently this sort of thing with the train is common.

Here in Doboj it is looking like the Rebublike Srpske and the Federation of Bosnia & Herzegovina operate quite separate in many ways. They are changing engines. Different engines with different names for the different national train companies. In the past on this trip the meaning was usually that there was a change in country. I eagerly await the possibility of a passport check. If they ever get moving again that is.

I wonder if Doboj was the border. Allready I’ve seen a couple minarets. There was one earlier as well but this is more. Also there is a new conductor with a new uniform. Now another minaret.

Soon I will be heading back towards Iceland. Home. Home no more. I have enjoyed my journey. I think I am done with travelling for a while though. I don’t want to go live in a new place for six months, a year, two years. I want to go back home. I don’t want to just pass through Iceland. I want to live there again. Six weeks or so ago I decided I would not go back. Now it is too late to change my mind it seems. So no more home.

20:02
So close! So very close. My train made up a little time and so I was 30 minutes from Sarajevo with almost exactly 30 minutes until the train I need to catch leaves Sarajevo. I don’t feel like a 24 hour delay on my arriving to Beograd though, and I want to avoid every opportunity at sleeping outside. Two times have been enough, and I probably have two more times yet to come. Göteborg and Bergen. I am not looking forward to either. The first time was in Hoek van Holland, thank you again Stena lines. I arrived about midnight for a 7:20 sailing and the security guard said they were closing until 6:00 so I

Hoek van Holland walked in a promising direction for a ways until I came to a lighthouse and lay down next to it, only to wake a short time later freezing. This is a curse of roughing it, waking up freezing. So cold and tired and you want to just curl up so tightly you can just sleep a little bit. This continued for a time until I finally put on a bunch more clothes. It wasn’t perfect but immeasurably better. Then about 3:00 someone came by twice on a little scooter of some sort, ARGH! I think the fellow saw me the second time because it seemed he started a bit. Probably thought I was just homeless. But isn’t that my condition, my journey, a month of homeless splendor. I finally decided to get up a little before 6:00 and a curious little sheep came to investigate me. I slept next to a long narrow enclosure with many sheep. It’s amazing how these creatures can seem so ultimately stupid yet they have a period in life, at least some of them, of such wise exploratory spirit. I liked that little sheep. I tried to pet it but I was always worried it would try to eat my hand. At 6:00 the ferry terminal was quite open with people mingling about. I noticed one restaurant had opened at 5:45. So that security guard told me at least a bit of a lie. I do wonder how big it was. My second night in the bush I slept on a snail. While there are countless experiences in the world less pleasant than sleeping on a snail it is still not something which I can imagine would bring much joy and satisfaction to many people. It was a morning discovery, the poor, now deceased snail.

2005.05.23
17:39

Vaduz The snail was on a mountain side in Liechtenstein. I arrived in Vaduz after a day journey from San Marino. Liechtenstein isn’t a particularly good place for cheap accommodation even if I was in the market. I arrived in Vaduz by post bus, this sort of bus seems quite common in Europe. Somehow connected with the postal system their main stops (at least in Liechtenstein) are at post offices. Regardless this was the last or next to last postbus leaving Buchs in Switzerland, after looking at Buchs for a short time I concluded there weren’t any likely corners to hole up in for the night. This isn’t an easy process for me yet. The main difficulty is that it is dark. I’ve always come in to these places as a bit of a dead end. It is going to be too late to see it and too late to go anywhere else, but without possibility or at least convienience of coming early enough in the morning. So it is dark, you are looking for somewhere dark and you don’t know the territory. Vaduz ended up having that mountain side but I didn’t know it on arrival. At first I walked in the wrong direction, with the idea that I could sleep under a bridge on a river I’d seen. But then I turned around saw a castle on a hill.

2005.09.10
06:00
Ok it is a time long overdue to finish this. Now memories are faded. But they will only be more so if I continue to put this off. The castle on the hill was the home of the prince of Liechtenstein. The hill it rests upon rises abruptly from the flat of the town center. I managed to climb it a ways straight from the side of a building. At first I tried to sleep on its steep side, with mixed success. After some time I woke up and noticed what looked like an overgrown trail a little higher up the slope. It was overgrown and faded but it was a horizontal space, hidden in the trees. It would have been a wonderful place to sleep if it weren’t for the bitter cold and the snail. It took me quite some time to clean that snail off my things. In Vaduz I met some nice Colombians, Ingrid and Diego. Hopefully they found a nicer place to stay than I did.

As it turned out Liechtenstein was my last time of truly sleeping outside. There were times when I dozed off. Or had to wait long periods of not sleeping, but nothing was again so extreme. In Holyhead, Wales I met some Irish Travelers. I arrived there about 18:30. For a while I wandered around the place. Great Britain, a place so long in my dreams. When I was a child I wanted to go to the U.K. more than any other place in the world. The history intrigued me. When I was 10 or so I knew all the Kings and Queens from Offa to Elizabeth II and their reigns. It was tied into coins a bit. Offa was also the first king to issue silver pennies! Now I couldn’t name more than a handful. This train journey from Harwich to Holyhead was my first real view of rural England. I suppose I’ve seen a little bit on the way to and from airports, but this was different. I had fantasies about England being all city. There is quite a bit of country there. Farms, horses. Green fields, and the ever present in Europe, yellow rape seed fields. After dozing off for a while in the Holyhead ferry terminal I woke to find some interesting characters about. Mr. Pepper, Micky and Keith. Micky was the only genuine Irish traveler. Mr. Pepper had, or used to have an Irish traveler wife, as did Keith. They were both English. Mr. Pepper was homeless because his woman had thrown him out. He was also drunk, and seemed not long for this world. We all got to talking a bit about different things. They read my palm said I was going to get married soon. I don’t think that is all too likely. Mr. Pepper just wanted to sleep out somewhere until he could go back to his woman. Keith had gone back to England for the first time in many years. He was a truck driver in Ireland, and he had too many children to be able to afford coming more often. Micky was a character. He had an interesting accent. He was 17 and had just gone to England to meet his future wife. His father had arranged the marriage with a cousin of his wife. It was the first time Micky met the future wife and the next time they met it would be to get married. The ferry finally came about three in the morning and we said farewell to Mr. Pepper. In Ireland I said bye to the other two. It was glimpse at a whole other world. There are so many different groups in the world. People we never see or talk to.

I had a difficult time staying awake in the station at Bologna in Italy. It was only for an hour and a half but I was so tired. It was from 3:30-5:00, I would have dozed in the waiting area, but it was stuffed. Full of folks who seemed to be in one sort of trouble or another. After that the only long wait that really stands out was in Göteborg. I got there pretty late and rode out to the suburbs as far as the train went. I wanted to find some place to rough it but it was raining and cold. I dozed in a bus shelter for about an hour but it was really hell so I got back on the suburban train and rode in back and forth until it stopped at 4:15. The conductor was nice and didn’t mind my going back and forth. The poor guy had a very long walk once he got off because the busses weren’t running yet. After that I waited in the bus station until my train for Norway left four and a half hours later. It would have been an ok place to sleep for a little bit but security kept coming around poking people that dozed off. I suppose it works to keep homeless away but it was mean. I wouldn’t want to spend too much time there anyway though. A lot of people there seemed to have problems. Drugs and age, insanity and hard lives. At least I was out of the rain though.

Beyond those experiences sleeping wasn’t so bad. After a couple nights it got quite easy. Ferry terminals, trains, and ferries. The best were the ferries. They have a lot of space, and it is wonderful when the sea is acting up a bit. I don’t feel the least bit ill and I like to be rocked to sleep. On the trains the best place to sleep is the six person compartments. Especially when they are empty. I think I traveled at the perfect time of year. It was before the summer heat and the after the winter cold. It was also before the tourist season. The trains were often quite empty. Often when my timetable said I must make a reservation I tried and the person behind the counter would say, it wasn’t required. No problem. The only exception was in Spain. I had plans to go to the south of Spain and maybe Morocco. But all the trains south of Barcelona were fully booked, or so I was told. It worked out for the best though, it gave me more time in the Balkans and let me visit Michael in Århus. The train system I most disliked in all of Europe was the German one. Not only were they strict but they had a lot of supplemental fees. I spent more on German supplements than all other countries combined. In fact outside of Germany the only fees I had to pay were the €13.40 for a bed from Poland to Austria, and €1.50 for a reservation on a French train. I ended up going on many trains that my timetable informed me required supplements, but the Germans were the only ones who ever asked for them. And they did ask almost every time. The German trains were also not on time about half the time. My whole experience with German trains ended up surprising me quite a bit. I traveled in many countries where the trains weren’t supposed to run on time, but for the most part they did quite well.

The toilets on German trains were mostly pretty good though. Toilets were something I started to pay attention to after I noticed that in Switzerland they empty onto the tracks! After that I paid attention to that and low and behold that is what most trains in Europe do! There are signs asking not to use the toilets at stations, but I noticed some suspicious piles a couple times after I was conscious of it. It seems this would somehow be against some sanitation law. Also what about winter? It seems the waste would pile up without as much decomposition. When I lived in Alaska I heard that people with outhouses sometimes had problems with waste forming stalagmites in wintertime.

I visited some friends along the way and those were really the best places to sleep of all. I stayed a few nights with Oli in Mainz, and best of all the whole rest of the Mainz Germans were still living there. Some of them I hadn’t seen since South Africa. It was great to catch up. I visited Tanja in Koln although she doesn’t live there so it was my one night in the whole trip at a hostel. I stayed with Hugh in Cork and had the best milkshake of the whole trip there. It was honey flavored and wonderful. Overall the food in Ireland was quite good. Ireland feels good too. The three cities in Europe I would most want to live in at this point would have to be Reykjavík, Göteborg, and Cork. Göteborg and Cork I really didn’t see very much of but they felt like good places. I think I have come to like that size of city. I also visited Geraldine in Paris. Cities like that are overwhelming a bit. I think they would be nice to live in but I have reservations somehow. I loved Montreal, but I’m not sure I would really want to live in Paris, or Rome, or London. I suppose I would want to try it. I had a couple of milkshakes in Germany, they were ok, it had been many months and it was good to have a milkshake again. They were too thin though, and small. So that shake in Cork was truly satisfying. I also had a good shake in Monaco, well it felt almost right. It was a citrus flavor I think and it was a little curdled. The best ice cream I had on the trip was definitely in Rome. It was divine. Rome ended up being a lot of fun. I arrived about six in the morning and the city was pretty empty. I have to say again that is a wonderful bonus of sleeping on trains. Going around before the hoards. I didn’t go around so much in Rome though. I went to the Vatican and there was a small line so I got in it. After asking what the line was about I learned we were waiting to see the pope. It was a massive audience with tens of thousands. But I had a very good seat because I got there early. A nice guy from the IRS, Carlo, gave me a ticket. The tickets are free and you apparently don’t actually need them, but it is good to have them. We had green ones, which are normal. A Canadian doctor, Renata, had a red ticket which did mean something. She got it from a priest friend and got to sit in the V.I.P. section. She was right next to Justice Scalia of the U.S. Supreme Court. She even told him he was doing a great job in preserving families. Renata was a very nice woman, but I had to hold my tongue sometimes because I disagreed so very much with some of her values. I was with Catholics after all though. Renata even got to shake the pope’s hand. She was very pleased by this. In the end I spent the day with Carlo and Renata. They bought me lunch, and coffee, and ice cream. They were really very nice people. I worried that my mode of travel must have shown a bit. When I talked with people I met I never said that I was actually sleeping solely on trains and such. I also made quite an efford to stay clean and fresh. I think I must have got rather shabby sometimes though. For lunch we ate at Ristorante da Roberto al Passetto di Borgo, which was apparently where the pope liked to go when he was starting out in Rome. There certainly were a lot of priests there. We also met the priest friend of Renata’s, and as it sometimes is with priests he seemed extremely gay. I thought it was quite funny because Renata was so opposed to gay marriage and horrified at recent developments in Canada.

2005.09.13
05:14
There was the missionary I shared a compartment with between Sofiya and Bucuresti. His views were also quite radical. He believed among other things that the world was coming to an end. The start of this end would be a nuclear attack on Texas in July. So I guess we can all breath a sigh of relief. He was surprisingly un-pushy for an end of the world sort. He didn’t ask me to read any of his literature, and it took me a while to realize what his particular thoughts on the world were. There was another guy from the U.S. we met on the train who he did give some of his literature to, and another who was also extremely gay. Similar to Rome it was hilarious to watch the interaction between this fundamentalist religious figure and someone who represented what he saw as ultimate evil.

Most of the other conversations I had while travelling were stumbles in languages that I don’t really speak, Spanish or French in the Latin areas and German in the east. It is fun to realize that you can sort of communicate even with very few words and it is an inspiration to learn more. There was a full compartment of older ladies in Italy. They were pilgrims sort of, and none of us were Italian. I did chat for a while in very bad Spanish with the two that were Brazilian. They first guessed I was Polish, and guessed various other countries before I said I was from the U.S. this was a surprise to them. There was an old Macedonian man who had a nephew in the U.S. Scandinavians as always are easy to talk to in English. I met three Swedes from Umea of all places. This was in Beograd and we spent some hours wandering about. Beograd is a wonderful city. I expected it not to be. The Balkans were altogether very nice. Even my east European friends said it was a horrid place but it was very friendly, very cheap, without so many tourists. I’ll certainly have to go back some time. Slovenia is almost like the west in development, it feels that way. Croatia is behind a bit, but there was a lot of building going on. The Republike Srpske and Bosnia were much more primitive. Beograd though, it felt like a real city, it was nothing like Paris but that is what it reminds me of for some reason, bigger and more western than Budapest. It was a bit shocking to be wandering about the center with all the beautiful facades and come across a building that was left bombed from the war in 1999. It also had the east European characteristic of excellent little bakeries. Reykjavík also has many little bakeries, and east European cars. Besides that it is quite different.

On the train between Romania and Hungary I woke up in the middle of the night. I had my own nice little six person compartment. I noticed a girl going around looking for something. Eventually she came and asked me something. I had no idea what it was about but followed her as asked and there was a huge pile of green onions in sacks. She needed help to unload them at a small stop very quickly. Just by that door there was a couple hundred kilos, and I noticed that all down the train it was the same. It was strange, but nice to be of a little help.

Iceland The 48 hours by ferry from Bergen to Seyðisfjodur were also a good point for conversation. I talked with a couple on their anniversary. The Myruang´s from north Norway, retired schoolteachers, Nisar, another Canadian, spending his retirement travelling the world, and some Scottish students, some from the mainland, and a couple from Lerwick.

Well this could go on endlessly, there is work to do, so here it is, a little bit of Europe from the eyes of a vagabond.

Appendix I: Travel Timetable

Finland-Joensuu-Helsinki-Turku
Friday April 22nd 23:07-07:42 (802) H,
Saturday April 23rd 09:03-11:00 (IC 125) T,
21:00-6:30 (Viking Line) S

Sweden-Stockholm-Goteborg-Hallsberg-Stockholm-Malmo
Sunday April 24th 10:07-14:52 (169) G, 17:00-19:34 (186) H, 19:48-21:30 (686) S,
23:10-06:16 (203) M.
Monday April 25th 07:02-07:41 (1021) K.

Denmark-Kobenhavn(included walk to Christiania)
11:23-11:58 M.

Sweden-Malmo-Kristianstad-Karlskrona
12:28-13:40 K, 13:45-15:21 (364) K, 21:00-07:30 (Stena Line) G.

Poland-Gdynia-Gdansk-Katowice
Tuesday April 26th 08:30-09:00 G, 13:08-22:23 (57102/54102) K.
Wednesday April 27th 00:21-06:03 (203) W.

Austria-Wien (Sudbahnhof)
07:00-08:25 B.

Slovakia-Bratislava (Hlavni)
08:40-13:20 (EC 174 S) P.

Czech Republic-Praha (Holesovice)
15:32-17:52 (EC 172 S) D.

Germany-Dresden (Hbf)-Frankfurt-Mainz-Koln(included drive to the Netherlands)-Mainz-Koblenz
18:08-22:53 (ICE 1552) F.
Thursday April 28th 00:03-00:37 (IC 2020) M.
Saturday April 30th 07:17-09:05 (IC 2500) K.
Sunday May 1st 16:53-18:43 (IC 2501) M.
Monday May 2nd 08:20-09:12 (ICE 928) K, 09:24-11:39 (IC 438) L.

Luxembourg-Luxembourg
13:24-16:24 (2143) B.

Belgium-Brussels
17:50-20:38 (IC) A.

Netherlands-Amsterdam-Rotterdam-Hoek van Holland
21:59-23:03 (IC) R, 23:11-23:41 H.
Tuesday May 3rd 07:20-10:10 (Stena Line) H

United Kingdom-Harwich-London (Liverpool)-London (Euston)-Crewe-Chester-Holyhead 10:50-12:11 L, 13:45-15:31 C, 15:43-16:20 C, 16:37-18:26 H. Wednesday May 4th 02:50-06:05 (Irish Ferries) D.

Ireland-Dublin (Heuston)-Mallow-Cork-Limerick Junction-Waterford-Rosslare Harbour
08:30-10:57 M, 11:10-11:38 C.
Friday May 6th 07:00-07:56 L, 09:00-10:53 W (Bus), 11:30-12:55 (Bus Eireann) R, 17:00-11:00 (Irish Ferries) R.

France-Roscoff-Morlaix-Paris (Montparnasse)-Paris (Austerlitz)-L'Hospitalet
Saturday May 7th 13:30-14:05 (Bus) M, 14:17-18:25 (TGV 8646 R S) P,
Sunday May 8th 21:56-07:21 (3971 R S) L.
Monday May 9th 07:35-08:15 (La Hispano Andorra) P.

Andorra-Pas de la Casa
~09:40-10:00 (Hitchiking) L.

France-L'Hospitalet-Latour de Carol
11:24-11:52 L, 13:15-16:37 B.

Spain-Barcelona
17:20-20:02 (5839) C.

France-Cerbere-Perpignan
21:22-22:06 (3730) P.
Tuesday May 10th 00:13-08:15 (5508) M.

Monaco
12:28-12:50 V,

Italy-Ventimiglia-Torino-Rome (Termini)
15:45-20:00 (10197) T, 22:00-06:14 (809) R.

Vatican

Italy-Rome (Termini)-Bologna-Rimini
Wednesday May 11th 22:40-03:28 (E824) B.
Thursday May 12th 04:50-~06:00 R. 08:00-08:50 (Bonelli Bus) S.

San Marino
10:45-11:35 (Bonelli Bus) R

Italy-Rimini-Milano
12:08-16:00 (IR 2132) M, 16:25-20:51 (EC 172) Z.

Switzerland-Zurich-Buchs
21:40-22:50 (EN 465) B, 23:10-23:52 (Postbus) V.

Liechtenstein-Vaduz
Friday May 13th 10:40-11:15 F

Austria-Feldkirch-Innsbruck-Graz
11:20-13:27 (OEC 163) I, 15:35-21:24 (IC 613) G, 22:45-03:58 (240) P.

Slovenia-Pivka-Ljubljana
Saturday May 14th 04:25-05:41 L, 06:15-08:32 (297) Z.

Croatia-Zagreb
08:57-~19:44 (397) P.

Bosnia-Podlugovi(passed through Republike Srpske)
20:51-23:20 (258) D.

Republike Srpske-Doboj
23:37-06:37 (451) B.

Serbia-Beograd
Sunday May 15th 14:10-21:05 (511) P.

Montenegro-Podgorica
22:22-~07:00 (812) L.

Serbia-Lapovo
Monday May 16th 09:04-15:44 (411) S.

Macedonia-Skopje
16:10-21:47 (411) T.

Greece-Thessaloniki
23:56-07:10 (460 R) S.

Bulgaria-Sofiya
Tuesday May 17th 08:00-18:39 (460 R) B.

Romania-Bucuresti
19:25-10:12 (460 R) B.

Hungary-Budapest (Keleti)
Wednesday May 18th 13:00-20:34 (EC 62) M.

Germany-Munchen-Berlin (Ostbannhof)-Hamburg
23:03-07:28 (NZ 1900) B.
Thursday May 19th 07:45-09:15 (ICE 1618) H, 09:23-13:17 (EC 33) R.

Denmark-Ringsted-Arhus-Kobenhavn
13:37-16:08 (IC 145) A.
Friday May 20th 13:30-16:22 (Lyn 42) K, 16:43-17:42 L.

Sweden-Lund-Angelholm-Goteborg-Kungsbacka-Goteborg-Kungsbacka-Goteborg-Kungsbacka-Goteborg
17:51-~18:40 A, 20:12-22:13 (1086) G, 23:15-23:45 K.
Saturday May 21st 01:45-02:15 G, 02:15-02:45 K, 02:45-03:15 G, 03:15-03:45 K, 03:45-04:15 G, 08:40-12:45 (Swedish 392,Norwegian 116) O.

Norway-Oslo-Bergen
16:11-~02:35 (63 R, Bus from Honefoss) B.
Sunday May 22nd 06:00-16:00 (Smyril Line) L.

United Kingdom-Lerwick
16:30-06:00 (Smyril Line) T.

Faroe Islands-Torshavn
Monday May 23rd 12:00-09:00 (Smyril Line) S.

Iceland-Seydisfjodur-Reykjavik
Tuesday May 24th ~09:00-19:00 (Hitchiking) R.

Appendix II: Exchange Rates (2005.05.01)
Code USD/1 Unit Units/1 USD Currency
ADF 0.13390 7.46590 Andorran Franc
ADP 0.00537 186.16700 Andorran Peseta
BAM 0.61120 1.64090 Bosnian Mark
BGN 0.66230 1.51980 Bulgarian Lev
CHF 0.83680 1.19550 Swiss Franc
CZK 0.04220 23.79700 Czech Koruna
DKK 0.17290 5.78520 Danish Krone
EUR 1.28770 0.77680 Euro
GBP 1.90880 0.52410 British Pound
HRK 0.17500 5.72550 Croatian Kuna
HUF 0.00511 196.56000 Hungarian Forint
ISK 0.01583 63.30300 Iceland Krona
MKD 0.02100 48.91990 Macedonian Denar
NOK 0.15840 6.31790 Norwegian Kroner
PLN 0.30070 3.33350 Polish Zloty
ROL 0.00004 28153.00000 Romanian Lei
RSD 0.01579 63.32360 Serbian Dinar
SEK 0.14020 7.13830 Swedish Krona
SIT 0.00537 186.23000 Slovenian Tolar
SKK 0.03275 30.63100 Slovak Koruna
YUN 0.01579 63.32360 Yugoslav Dinar

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All material copyright 2004-2010 by Loren Everly.